Cranberry Relish

Every family has one or two recipes that come out during the holidays that are fairly unique to their family.  My family has Cranberry Relish.

It's not a pickled relish as you might expect from a hot dog relish.  It's all fruit, made with fresh cranberries, a whole orange, a whole apple, and just enough sugar to take the puckery edge off a bit.

Over the years, this has become my favorite condiment for that after-Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing sandwich.  I'll gladly pass the jellied stuff for a big heaping spoonful of cranberry relish.

Enjoy the recipe below.  Happy Thanksgiving!

Cranberry Relish

Ocean Spray actually sold a similar product in a tub in the refrigerator section of the grocery store back in the 80's or 90's.  It came in various additional flavors, such as cran-raspberry, but the texture and taste was nearly the same.  I'm not sure what ever happened to them.

1 12oz package fresh or frozen cranberries
1 large range, preferably a thin-skinned variety
1 whole apple, preferably a less-tart variety
1/2 to 1 cup of granulated sugar to taste

1. Wash the apple and remove the core and seeds.  Chop the rest of the apple, skin and all, into large chunks.
2. Wash the orange and slice-off the stem and blossom end so that you can see the orange flesh.  If using a thick-skinned variety, such as a navel orange optionally remove half of the peel (the thick white pith is the most bitter part).  Chop the remainder of the orange into large chunks, removing any seeds as best as you can.
3. Wash cranberries if using fresh.
4. Place the apple and orange chunks into the bowl of a food processor outfitted with a steel blade.  Process in pulses until the fruit is very finely chopped, almost pureed.
5. Add the cranberries.  Pulse just until the mixture is the texture of hot dog relish.
6. Remove mixture to a bowl.  Stir-in 1/2 cup of sugar.  Taste and add additional sugar until you like it.  Keep in mind that the mixture will sweeten slightly as it sits, so you may wish to under-sweeten it and add more sugar the next day.
7. Pack into an airtight container and refrigerate up to 3 days.  Serve.

Optional Canning Instructions
This product is made of high-acid ingredients and thus is safe to can.  The instructions provided below were devised by reviewing recipes for pickle relish and making some adjustments to buy a little extra safety.

1. If the relish seems dry, add about 1/2 cup of water or commercial orange juice to loosen it up.  This will keep the density down for safety.  You might also wish to allow the mixture to macerate overnight in the refrigerator, which usually extracts juices naturally from the fruit and softens it.
2. In a large pot, heat the mixture just until it is heated through and is at a simmer.  Remove from the heat.
3. Pack into jars no larger than quarts.  Leave 1/2 inch head space.  De-bubble as best as you can, wipe the rims, and add lids and rings.
4. Process in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes.

Complete Thanksgiving Round-up

I'm going to admit that my intentions were to get a whole bunch of recipes, tips, and tricks for thanksgiving out to you before today but it just didn't happen.  I had planned to take some time off from work this week to do personal things, prep for the big day, and catch-up on the blog, but I ended-up with a 4mm kidney stone (ouch!) last week, which resulted in a hospital visit, a lot of discomfort, and prescription painkillers.  And it's still not gone.  :-(

With that said, it IS Turkey Day, so let's get on with the festivities, shall we?

Here's a sort of random list of thoughts, tips, and things I've learned from hosting Thanksgiving over the last couple of years.   I hope it helps

To Pot-Luck or Not?
I spent the first couple of years trying to control the menu so I could plan the perfect Thanksgiving meal and have all the food on the table and hot at the right time.  It failed miserably.  For most people, Thanksgiving is a holiday filled with family traditions.  Guests at your table want to share their traditions with you and they want to "help" you by bringing a dish...or two...or three and you can rest assured that they'll all show-up while you're trying to make the gravy, heat the dinner rolls, and carve the bird and they'll want oven or microwave space to reheat their dish.

To this I say, embrace the pot luck.  Start assigning dishes to people that you know they like to make or bring and plan ahead for how that dish will be reheated or served.  If you can have a separate area or an extra microwave just for reheating, all the better, as it allows you to finish doing whatever you have to do in the kitchen and they can do what they need to do in that other space.

You may also find that space at the table and serving dishes and spoons get to be at a premium when people are bringing food.  If you're hosting, consider setting-up a buffet where people can fill their plates and then sit-down at the table together.  This keeps a family dinner atmosphere while leaving some elbow room at the table.  When assigning dishes, ask folks to bring their dishes ready to serve, including any special utensils.  When I attend a pot-luck, I even label my utensils so that they go home with me and if I know I'll be leaving early, I'll use disposable or discount store ceramic serving pieces so they can be left with the host.

The Bird
I'm not going to tell you how to cook your bird.  There are 100 techniques and most of them have sound food science behind them (except for Grandma's method of starting at 5am and basting it every hour...that one is bunk).  Serious Eats did one of the most complete jobs I've ever seen done on different styles and techniques, so I'll just point you there.  I'll also say that I'm trying "bird in a bag" this year, which is a unique and old-school choice and I'll let you know how it works out.  Here are some general thoughts:

• A smaller turkey will cook quicker and juicier than a large turkey.  What this means is if you're feeding a crowd and can get 2 pans that fit side-by-side in your oven, two 15 pound birds will cook faster than one 23-25 pound bird and you get more of every part of the bird.
• If you do the two-bird thing above, take it from my bad experience.  You MUST have them in separate pans.  Putting them in the same pan amounts to having one giant bird and will take as long to cook the middle of the combined mass.
• I've used the "flip" method (developed years ago by ATK) for quite a few years and it works well.  you start your bird breast-side-down and cook the dark meat facing-up at a higher temperature first for about 2 hours.  Then you flip the bird over (no easy feat...get out some kitchen towels you don't mind getting greasy) and continue roasting at a reduced temperature.
• Don't baste your turkey.  I know Julia Child and Grandma said to do it but they didn't have food science in their day.  :-)  If you want crisp skin, basting will make it leathery and chewy.  For crispy skin, oil or butter your turkey generously. 
• Brining is great but will change the texture of the meat.  Some people like it, some don't.  The hardest thing with brining is how to refrigerate a 20-pound hunk of meat submerged in water.  If you really want to brine, Google "Dry Brining," a relatively new method that is akin to a dry rub and all the food science geeks are raving about it.  Personally, I never brine at all.
• Spend the money on decent turkey.  You've all seen my rant about spongy supermarket chicken.  The same applies to most supermarket turkey as well...particularly the ones marked self-basting, enhanced, or pre-brined (that'd be you, Butterball).

Stuffing
There's lots of advice on whether to stuff the bird or not and why.  The bottom line is this.  If you stuff the bird, you need to get the temperature of the stuffing to 160 degrees in order to avoid food poisoning.  This results in the outside of the bird (the white meat) reaching "sawdust" temperatures.  There are a couple of strategies to help:

• The obvious solution is to cook the stuffing separately.  I'll be honest and say that it won't taste nearly as good unless you have real turkey stock hanging around.  You can pour some turkey drippings over it towards the end if you like and stir.
• Use a stuffing bag (a cheesecloth bag) to stuff the bird).  About 2 hours into cooking, once the juices from the turkey have run into the stuffing, remove the bag and mix it with any remaining stuffing.  Finish baking in a separate pan.  I've done this a few years in a row.  It's messy and requires timing, but it works well and preserves that "baked in bird" flavor.

Cranberry Sauce and Such
I wrote a nice little post about cranberry sauce with 3 recipes this morning, so I'll just point you there.

Gravy
Repeat after me.  I will not buy canned gravy.  Okay?  Good.

Thanksgiving gravy bugs the crap out of me because people make it way more complicated than it needs to be.  Don't fuss.

Ideally, you make it during that hour of "rest time" while the turkey is waiting to be carved and you make it entirely from pan drippings.  In reality, the world needs more gravy than one bird can provide and the logistics never seem to work out quite so simple, so I often make a lot of it ahead from chicken stock and maybe add the pan drippings to it.  Just use a basic "veloute" recipe that involves making a roux from butter and flour and adding the stock.  If you're going to make gravy from pan drippings, use a flour/water slurry to drizzle into your hot liquid instead of the roux.

And guess what?  Lumps are no problem.  That's why they invented fine-mesh sieves!  ;-)


Above all, have fun and remember that it's about enjoying time with family and friends.

Happy Thanksgiving, Everyone!

DIY Cranberry Sauce Gone Horribly Wrong (And How to Do It Right...and Super Easy)

I was in the grocery store yesterday picking up a few last-minute items for Thanksgiving and I happened across this product, parked in the produce aisle right next to the bagged cranberries.

"Make-it-Yourself Cranberry Sauce Kit...Includes Flavor Packet - $3.99"

I did a double-take and PLEASE understand that this is not one of those cases where I'm being a food snob.  I'm also not knocking those who reach for the can for nostalgia reasons or pure convenience.  However, making cranberry sauce is a dump-and-stir operation, folks.  It doesn't require a kit any more than mud pies do.  It has 3 ingredients (sugar, water, cranberries), takes about 20 minutes of your time start-to-finish, and is arguably easier than making tollhouse cookies from a tube of dough.

Curious, I turned the package over to see what their secret flavor packet had in it. Sugar, water, lemon, "natural and artificial flavoring," and a healthy dose of preservatives.  $3.99

Fresh cranberries: $2.50.  Sugar: Free in my cupboard.  Water: Free.

You be the judge.

Basic Whole-Berry Cranberry Sauce
1 12-oz package fresh or frozen whole cranberries
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

1) Place water and sugar in a large heavy pot and bring to a boil.
2) Add cranberries and return to a boil.
3) Reduce heat and boil gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking and burning.
4) Remove from heat, pour into a glass container, cover, and cool.  Chill before serving.

Makes about 24oz

Jellied Cranberry Sauce
(This would be the slice-able stuff like in the can)

1) Prepare Whole-Berry Cranberry Sauce as directed above.
2) Before sauce cools, pass through a food mill, ricer, or press through a fine-mesh strainer.  This will remove the seeds and skins.
3) Scrape into a jelly mold, a clean aluminum can, or a straight-sided glass jar or bowl.  Cover and refrigerate several hours until completely set and chilled.

Shelf-Stable Cranberry Sauce
(This assumes you know basic canning procedures.  If you don't, read about them here.)

1) Prepare either whole-berry or jellied sauce using one of the recipes above.
2) Prepare a boiling water bath (BWB) canner.
3) Fill jars with 1/4 inch headspace.
4) Process jars 15 minutes in a boiling water bath.

For something a little different, try my family's recipe for Cranberry Relish!

Thanksgiving Recap

I really really honestly wanted to do some ingenious posts just before Thanksgiving with tips and tricks for entertaining but the fact is, I was serving 17 people and I had a lot of tips and tricks to take care of on my own.  Instead, we'll have to settle for a little recap.

As I mentioned, we had 17 people for dinner.  That's a LONG table...  Things I learned:

• When you do a pot-luck, everyone will always bring more dishes than you assigned them.  When you do pot-luck with more than a handful of people, the number of dishes can get out of hand quickly.  :-)
• When serving 17 people (or over 10, really), consider a buffet for the food to allow for more elbow room at the dinner table.  It's not as quaint as passing dishes family-style, but it's more orderly and you'll be thankful to be doing fewer dishes.  Also, buffets can have heating devices (slow cookers, chafing dishes, etc.), making reheating food that has traveled less of a burden on the kitchen equipment that is already occupied.
• Two turkeys cook faster than one of an equal number of pounds.
• Bread stuffing tastes great with a handful of re-hydrated dried cranberries tossed into it.

Home-Preserved things I got to use:

• Cranberry sauce from last year's stash (both jellied and whole berry)
• Peach sauce (this one was a hit with one of my wife's cousins)
• Roasted Red Peppers in a delicious Roasted Red Pepper Dip

All in all, I'd say it was a very successful and enjoyable day.  I really do enjoy seeing the entire family all in one place and just being able to hang out and chat with them.  I thank everyone that contributed to the day and I really couldn't have done it without all the help.

With that, I'll leave you with some photos from the day...

All That Pumpkin...And Squash

If there's something that's nearly synonymous with Autumn, it's pumpkin and winter squash.  When they produce in your garde, they usually produce plentifully.  In the supermarket and farm stands, you can't find a better bargain at pennies per pound.  So how can you take that delicious squash and pumpkin flavor and save it so that it lasts through the winter?  More importantly, how do you get the flesh out of the darned thing without chopping your fingers off?

My favorite method is to roast, portion, and freeze them.  It's the easiest, most hands-off method, and it doesn't require a lot of fancy equipment.  Plus, the roasting process makes the flesh even sweeter than it already is, turning a good squash into a great squash.  The method works great for any type of squash--butternut, acorn, pumpkin, buttercup, etc.  Here's how to do it.

First, cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds and as much stringy material as you can.  I find a tablespoon to be the best tool.  Lightly oil a sheet or baking pan and place the squash cut-side down on the pan.

Bake the squash at 350 degrees, checking every 15-20 minutes.  When you can push a butter knife through the skin and the flesh without resistance, remove it from the oven and let it cool.  Here's where the optional fancy equipment comes into play.

No Fancy Equipment:
Turn the cooled squash over and scoop the soft flesh away from the skin and into a bowl.  It's a little messy, but still easier than peeling a hard uncooked squash.  Mash the flesh with a regular old potato masher.  If you're planning to bake with it, consider pressing it through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon.

Power  Tools:
If you have a food processor, separate the flesh from the skin as you would for the "No Fancy Equipment" method but then take the flesh for a whiz in the food processor until it's nice and smooth.  If the plan is to serve it as a side dish, simply whipping it with an electric mixer will do.

Kicking it Old-School:
My favorite tool is an old-fashioned cone-shaped ricer or a food mill (also called a Foley Mill).  Though they both run on man power, they make quick work of the tough stringy flesh often found inside winter squash and pumpkin.

The next step is up to you.  If you'll be serving it, a little brown sugar to taste is all it needs, in my opinion.  Best Thanksgiving side dish you could ask for.

If you want to store it, the freezer is the tool for the job.  Measure out 15-16 oz portions (by volume is fine if you don't have a scale) and scoop into zip-top bags.  Each bag will be approximately the same size as "one can" of store-bought pumpkin or squash puree, perfect for adding to your favorite Pumpkin Bread, Pumpkin Pie, or Pumpkin Cake recipe.  Or, if you need a quick veggie for a weeknight meal, just take it out, pop it into the microwave, and serve.

Thanksgiving - Storing Leftovers

Everyone seems ready to dole-out tips for using up those leftover bits from Thanksgiving. I don't know about you, but after a day or two, I get to that point where enough is enough. Turkey is delicious, but you can only eat so much at a time.

Thankfully, I discovered a really great technique for storing turkey to be used over time. If you're like me, you take leftover meat and put it all in a zip-top bag in the freezer. When you go to use it, you find you have a gallon-sized lump of meat that all has to be defrosted at once even if you need only a handful for the dish you're making. Never fear. There is a way to prevent this.

Move stuff around in your freezer so that a sheet pan will fit in it. I know this is difficult, but if you shuffle stuff around, you can often squeeze it in just between other stuff and ceiling of the freezer cavity. Chop the turkey into bite-sized pieces or pieces you feel you can use in recipes and scatter them loosely on the sheet pan. Freeze the pan uncovered for 1 to 2 hours or until the turkey has pretty much frozen solid. Remove the pan from the freezer and rap it sharply on the counter to loosen the pieces. Transfer them to a zip-top bag, remove as much air as you can, and return to the freezer.

What you've done here is created "Individually Quick Frozen" (IQF) chunks of turkey...roughly the same technique manufacturers use for frozen peas, corn, etc. By doing this, you can now remove only the amount of turkey you need and defrost it or add it directly to a dish for a quick meal. Be sure to store it at the back of the freezer if you can and remove as much air as you can every time you open the bag. This helps prevent ice crystals from forming around the meat.

Incidentally, this same technique will work for most of the other leftovers. Using a cookie scoop or large ice cream scoop with a mechanical sweep, portion-out other leftovers (potatoes, butternut squash, stuffing, etc.) on a sheet pan. Freeze 1-2 hours and move the individual scoops of leftovers into a large zip-top bag.

Thanksgiving - Pot Luck Tips

Many of us attend family pot-luck parties throughout the holiday season. If you're bringing a dish to someone else's house, here are a few tips to help you out.

Serving Spoons
Never assume the host will have enough serving spoons for your dish and everyone else's. Often, they forget this too. Keep some inexpensive nylon spoons around just for pot-luck dinners and bring one along with the dish. Be sure to label your spoon and dishware so you get it back. If you're feeling generous, bring some spoons for others who will undoubtedly forget theirs.

Towels & Potholders
I always toss a few kitchen towels or even paper towels into the bag with the food in case I need to do a quick cleanup. You should also bring a couple of pot holders since this is another thing your host probably won't have enough of. Again, label them if you want them back.

Transportation
Pyrex makes a number of insulated bags that fit their various casserole dishes. They usually come in a set with the dish they're made to fit. However, I've been known to use them for any dish that will fit.

To keep a dish warm, cover tightly with plastic wrap and then place aluminum foil over the plastic. Place the whole thing into the insulated bag. The plastic will keep the food and moisture in the dish while you're driving and the foil and insulated bag will help keep it warm.

If you don't have Pyrex bags, the insulated reusable shopping bags available for about $3 at most grocery stores will do just fine. Flexible cooler bags work well too. I personally love to use my LL Bean canvas Boat 'n Totes to carry food. They don't keep it warm but they're heavy and do a good job at keeping things from falling over during travel.

One last travel tip: The foot well of the back seat is a great place to put a large pot or slow cooker as the seats can be pushed-up against them to prevent tipping. If the pot or bag is heavy enough, you can often place it on the back seat on top of a thick towel and buckle it in like a child. It sounds silly, but it works. The trunk is probably the worst place unless you can bungee the item down.

Heating On-Location
Heating can be a pain in the butt at a pot-luck, especially when everyone intends to heat their food in a single microwave oven. Always preheat your entree and attempt to keep it as warm as possible during travel to keep on-site reheating time to a minimum. If your contribution can be reheated in the oven, use an oven-safe dish so you have the option of using that while everyone else uses the microwave.

Slow Cookers
If your entree happens to serve well in a slow cooker, be sure to bring an extension cord and warn your host that you'll be needing an outlet near the buffet. The same goes for those new electric "steam tables". If you're serving something soupy, don't forget to bring a ladle and something to rest the ladle on to keep your host's tablecloth clean. To keep the food in place during transport, cover the ceramic pot firmly with plastic wrap and place the cover on top of the wrap. Use some string or a small bungee cord to hold the lid on. Slide it under the lid handle and hook it to both side handles.

Special Service Pieces
I often bring soup, stew, chowder, or chili in a slow cooker and the host doesn't usually think to buy disposable bowls or spoons. If you're bringing something that requires specialized service pieces, be sure to bring those pieces along as well. Toppings (such as crackers for soup) and sauces (ketchup, mayo, mustard, etc.) are also something you should bring along and have a serving bowl for them as well.

Instruction Card
If your food contribution is something not easily recognizable or a specific serving method is recommended, provide a small card in front of the dish that explains what it is, how to serve it, and how to eat it. For example, you may have a pot of gumbo that is intended to be served over white rice. Your card might indicate the name of the dish, "Chicken Gumbo," and say something like, "Serve over white rice with a sprinkle of chopped scallions." For spicy dishes, it may make sense to indicate whether it is mild, medium, or hot.

Special Diets
I've often been to pot-luck dinners where a guest brings a dish that caters to his or her own special diet so that he or she will have something to eat. Inevitably, that person ends-up last in line and the dish is empty by the time he or she gets there. If the dietary restriction is for medical reasons, consider putting a small portion aside and asking your host to hold it for you in another room. If you intend to simply share, make sure you make a double or triple batch so it won't run out by the time you get there.

Pre-Slicing
When bringing pies, cakes, lasagne's, or other items baked as a whole, pre-slice it before placing it on the table. I can't tell you how many times I've brought a French Meat Pie to a party and people cut such generous slices that only a half-dozen folks get to enjoy it. In the case of dessert, people seem very reluctant to be the first one to cut a cake or pie and they'll go for the brownies instead. Pre-slice these and remove one piece. It's a small, yet necessary subliminal message that it's okay to grab a slice for yourself.

Getting Your Dish Back
If you're going to a party hosted by someone you don't see on a regular basis, consider purchasing an inexpensive yet elegant dish or platter to hold your contribution. Explain to the host that the platter or dish, once empty, is also a gift for him or her to keep. This tackles the problem of food and a hostess gift all in one shot.

Another option is to bring clean disposable plastic containers (Ziploc, Gladware, Etc.) to hold leftover food. At the end of the party, scoop the leftovers into the containers to leave with the host or give away to other guests and take your dirty serving piece home. Bringing a plastic grocery bag or two along to transport the dirty dishes is handy as well.

Thanksgiving - The "Wow" Factor

I'm one of those people who truly enjoys entertaining. As such, I often take the time to do the little extras and make things from scratch. However, there are some extras that are so easy to do that anyone can do them and you'll end-up looking like Martha Stewart. Here are a few:

Whipped Honey Butter
This is great dotted on rolls fresh out of the oven or even on veggies. Serve in place of regular butter at the table.

1) In a large mixing bowl, combine 1 stick of softened unsalted butter, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon of honey.
2) Using a stand or handheld mixer, whip the butter on high until light and fluffy.
3) If you're handy with a piping bag (I'm not), pipe butter with a large star tip into custard cups. Otherwise, mound into custard cups using a small cookie scoup or whatever you have handy.

Extra Salt & Pepper Shakers
I dunno about yo, but there's always someone in the family who hogs the salt shaker. When you're seated at a long table, this can be problematic. Consider purchasing extra inexpensive salt and pepper shakers at a discount store. Make sure there's a pair for every 4 to 6 people. If you really want to be fancy, they sell individual mini shakers so that each guest can have his or her own.

Linen Napkins
Linen napkins are a big part of what makes an elegant affair elegant. Most discount clubs (Sam's, BJ's, Costco, etc.) sell plain white linen napkins in 6-packs for a very reasonable price (about a dollar per napkin). These are a great buy not only for the price but because they're all white. White goes with anything, they can all go into a single laundry batch, and you can bleach them if you have stubborn stains. It's a small investment that will last a long time.

Homemade Chips & Dip
Homemade chips are easy when you have pita pockets around. Combine with your favorite dip recipe (typically with a base of sour cream or mayo), and you have a fancy treat that took no effort.

1) Heat your oven to 350 degrees.
2) Open a package of pita pockets. Slice each around the edge so that you have two discs. Cut each into 6 or 8 wedges, about the size of a potato chip.
3) Place pita wedges on a large sheet pan. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and toss to coat. Spread into a single layer.
4) Bake at 350, checking and turning them every 3-5 minutes. Chips are done when all are crispy and starting to brown along the edges.

Extra Serving Spoons
We all have a set of flatware, but did you ever notice that it comes with only one serving spoon? That just won't cut it for a big family-style dinner like Thanksgiving. Purchase additional serving spoons from a kitchen store or restaurant supply warehouse and store them with your china. It beats trying to serve with tablespoons.

Use the Good China for Dessert
A lot of people drag-out the good dishware for dinner but default to paper or plastic for dessert. Dessert will seem so much more elegant if you serve it on real plates, even if you're serving buffet style. You've already committed to the dishes for dinner, you might as well go the extra step with dessert.

Mixed Drink Pitchers
Bottles of soda, wine, and beer are a must, of course, but it's always nice to serve something homemade. Purchase an inexpensive glass pitcher from a discount box store (Target, Walmart, etc.) and do some sort of mixed drink, be it alcoholic or non-alcoholic. Some ideas:

• Red or White Sangria (A delicious cross between wine and fruit punch)
• Lemon Iced Tea (Kool-Aid packets add great lemon flavor to freshly brewed iced tea)
  
• A Mixed Alcoholic Beverage - Many mixed drinks can be made by the gallon. It saves you from playing bartender all evening.
• Hot Cocoa - Believe it or not, this one is always popular. Instead of using a glass pitcher, use a thermos-style coffee carafe or pump pot. Want to go fancy? Add a tablespoon or two of mint extract, available near the vanilla extract in the grocery store.
• Shirley Temples - Lots of kids coming? Mix-up a batch of Shirley Temples (grenadine syrup and ginger ale). Provide inexpensive wine glasses and sliced orange halves so they can feel like a grown-up.
  

Easy Butternut Squash

It makes me sad when I see the packets of peeled and cubed butternut squash in the market for over a dollar a pound when the whole squash sits beside them at mere pennies per pound. Unfortunately, this is an extremely popular item because people absolutely hate to peel the tough, waxy skin and worry about their fingers as they attempt to chop through the tough flesh. Believe me. I understand your pain and fear. Even with the sharpest of knives and peelers, butternut squash is a tough nut to crack.

But what if there were an easier way? What if the squash itself did all the work? It can. All you have to do is ask your oven for help....

Easy Baked Butternut Squash
With Microwave and Make-Ahead variations

1 whole winter squash (butternut, acorn, pumpkin, etc.)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons of butter
brown sugar

1) Preheat your oven to 350 degrees
2) Using a very sharp chef's knife, slice through the squash from stem to bottom.
3) Scoop out seeds and as much of the stringy flesh as you can.
4) Pour oil into a large glass baking dish. Smear oil around to coat the bottom of the dish.
5) Place both halves of squash cut side down in the dish.
6) Place the baking dish into the oven and cook until you can pass through the skin and flesh easily with a butter knife (20-40 minutes).
7) Remove dish from the oven and carefully flip squash face-up. Cool 5-10 minutes.
8) Using a large spoon or an ice cream scoop, remove the soft flesh from the squash and place it into a serving dish.
9) Add butter to hot squash. Mash well. Add brown sugar to taste.

Microwave Variation: Follow the recipe above. Instead of using the oven, microwave squash on high power for 15 minutes. Test for doneness and continue cooking in 5 minute intervals until done.

Make-Ahead Variation: Follow the recipe above except place squash in a covered casserole dish instead of a serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate up to 2 days. To reheat, place casserole in the microwave and microwave on high in 5 minute intervals, stirring between each until heated throughout.

Recipe: Homemade Cranberry Sauce

It just isn't Thanksgiving without cranberry sauce. The sweet-tangy taste and gorgeous red color are the perfect compliment to all of the other dishes on the table. It's the cranberry sauce that says, "This is autumn and this is a special day."

Let's face it, though. Most of us reach for the can when it comes to this important part of our holiday table. Whether you like the chunky whole cranberry style or that strange yet tempting jellied mass still holding the shape of the can when it's served, it always seems to come down to the can. The fact of the matter is, it's incredibly easy to make your own and it tastes oh-so-much better!

Here are two very simple recipes from Ocean Spray. Both will take no more than 15 minutes or so of your time:
Whole-Berry Cranberry Sauce
Jellied Cranberry Sauce

If you're into trying something new, here's a recipe that was verbally passed-down through my family over the years. I'm quite sure it originally came from the back of a bag of cranberries, but it still feels like a family heirloom to me.

Cranberry Relish

1 package fresh whole cranberries
1 apple
1 navel orange
sugar to taste

1) Wash fruit thoroughly. Core and chop apple into 1-inch chunks but do not peel. Cut orange into 1-inch pieces and remove seeds but do not peel.
2) Using a meat grinder or food processor, grind all fruit until the consistency of pickle relish. If using a food processor, use short pulses and be careful not to puree the mixture.
3) Add sugar one tablespoon at a time, mixing and then tasting until it's the sweetness you prefer.
4) Put in a decorative bowl and serve at the thanksgiving table. Will keep for a week or more in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

Note: Modern navel oranges have thick white piths that make them easy to peel but also make the skin much more bitter. If you find the relish too bitter, try peeling half the orange before grinding or removing the zest with a vegetable peeler for use and discarding the white pith. You may also add apple juice or apple cider to sweeten the dish instead of sugar but be careful not to make it too soupy.

Thanksgiving - Making it Through the Day

I love to cook and that's why I volunteered to host Thanksgiving this year. It's outright therapeutic for me and I just can't wait for the day to come. The fact is, however, that most people find it hectic and nerve-wracking. Getting the turkey done and having all the side dishes come out at the same time and at the right temperature with a single oven and one "chef" is difficult.

Here are a few of my tips for getting through the day:

• Take advantage of pot-luck. Guests usually want to bring something and will do so even if you tell them not to. Instead of ending-up with 10 bottles of wine, take advantage of this by assigning side dishes or desserts to family members (or taking volunteers). Specifically choose dishes that either require the oven (which the turkey is occupying) or that will pull your attention away from the turkey for long periods of time such as potatoes, butternut squash, casseroles, etc.
• Don't stuff your turkey. Stuffed turkeys take longer to cook in order for the stuffing to reach a safe temperature. This overcooks the breast meat and makes you have to get up at O-dark-thirty to prep the bird and get it going. Instead, cook the stuffing separately and add turkey drippings before serving for flavor. Cook's Country has a great recipe for turkey that can take as little as 3 hours. The December issue (in bookstores) has the recipe or you can sign-up for a free trial at their website. The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook also has the recipe.
  
• Buy smaller birds. Nothing takes longer and more tending-to than a 23-pound bird. If you must serve something that big, buy two smaller birds. They take less time to cook, come out juicier, and have more of each part so there's no fighting Uncle Steve over the drumstick. Make sure you have two pans that will fit in the oven or that two birds will fit in one pan.
• Use a baking bag. Baking bags, made by Reynolds, are available at most supermarkets. They're a miracle of modern technology because they make it virtually impossible to overcook your turkey. It's a plastic bag that you can put your turkey in and it goes right into the oven. Baking the bird in a bag is similar to pressure-cooking it, making it come out juicy and tender and actually cook in less time. And, you'll still get that crisp-golden skin.
  
• Make what you can ahead. Pies are a definite make-ahead. Mashed butternut squash, turnip, pearl onions, and veggies reheat beautifully in the microwave, on the stove, or in a slow oven. The same goes for many casseroles. Save crispy toppings for the day-of just before reheating.
  
• Make a batch of gravy the day before or the morning of using canned chicken or turkey stock. Before serving, make a batch with the drippings and combine the two or simply add the drippings to thin it out and give it fresh-roasted flavor.
• Buns - most of us use brown 'n serve or Pilsbury refrigerated and we usually burn them because we're so involved with carving the turkey. Put someone else in charge of the buns and make sure they have access to a timer. If you wish to keep traffic down in the kitchen, put the buns in yourself, set a portable timer, and hand it to someone in the dining room. Ask them to pull them out when done or notify you to do so. Have the baskets ready.
  
• Cold Dishes - Prep any cold items and condiments ahead of time, place into serving bowls, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. This works for butter, cranberry sauce, pickle and olive trays, etc. Put someone in charge of getting these to the table.
  
• Don't carve at the table. While a beautifully roasted bird is a gorgeous centerpiece, it's also a pain in the butt and you'll end-up eating cold food. After resting the bird, carve it in the kitchen. Remove each of the legs and wings, cutting them at the joints. Instead of trying to carve the breast on the bird, remove the entire breast and then slice it on the board. Arrange everything on a platter and serve. If you must show-off your bird, remove it from the oven and let it rest on a sideboard in the dining room. Everyone can ooh and ahh as it rests. Bring it back to the kitchen for carving before serving.
• I don't know about you, but my family always bickers over who will say grace once everyone has a hot steaming plate of food in front of them and it's beginning to go cold. If this happens to you too, elect someone before putting the food on the table. Once the serving dishes are there and everyone is seated, ask them to give thanks before loading-up the dinner plates.
• If your dining table will allow, prepare duplicate condiments such as salt and pepper, sauces, gravy, bread baskets, etc. This will get them served faster and eliminate passing things from one end of the table to the other for seconds. Dividing the turkey amongst two serving platters as well instead of one giant one solves space issues, is easier and lighter to pass, and speeds-up the process.
• Keep your tablescape simple. While everyone loves a beautiful centerpiece or decorative candles, they're just plain impractical for a meal that is served family-style because space is at a premium. If your heart is set on an artful table design, consider removing the excess items from the table before sitting down or serving your meal buffet-style so that platters and bowls have a place to be.
• If you plan to send leftovers home with your guests, consider asking your local Chinese restaurant or supermarket deli if you can purchase takeout containers from them or purchase extra disposable plastic containers (zip-loc, gladware, etc.). This way, your guests won't be going home with your good Tupperware.
• If your guests insist on doing the dishes, let them. I'm sure Emily Post wouldn't approve, but I personally see nothing wrong with putting-up my feet after cooking a meal like that. You've earned it!
  

I hope these tips help all of you have a Happy Thanksgiving!

Knowing Your Thanksgiving Turkey

I just had the pleasure of ordering my very first all-natural, humanly treated turkeys for Thanksgiving dinner. Instead of a frozen supermarket "self-basting" bird this year, I'll be roasting and serving two fresh birds from Whole Foods Market. The best part is that Whole Foods actually publishes the name of the farm and I can do a little research to make sure I'm getting what I'm paying for.

I've always been one of those wishy-washy cooks, bordering on "earthy crunchy" but not really ready to fork-over the money to make the big switch to all-natural, humanely treated, organic, and all that jazz. I visit my local farmer's markets and buy when I can. And I've read a lot recently about such topics, specifically Mark Bittman's Food Matters. Mark makes a great case for knowing where your food comes from and eating less meat not because it's more humane but because it's outright healthier for you (and he backs-up his arguments). Nonetheless, up until now, I still wasn't ready to make the jump. It's just too pricey.

Recently, my wife and I sat-down to watch Food, Inc. While we're still not financially prepared to go 100% organic/local/all-natural/humane/etc, that movie really lit a fire under me to start making little changes where I can. Specifically, I'm frustrated by all of the mechanization, industrialization, waste, and general all-around R&D and manufacturing processes that are involved in producing basic everyday "grown" ingredients like veggies, meat, and grains. I'd always blamed the problem on the highly-processed stuff like boxed treats, cereal, 100-calorie packs, and cookies (which I admittedly love). However, even chicken, beef, fish, pork, and plain old carrots and celery are produced in a way where we're just not eating what we think we are anymore. Everything's a manufactured and patented product. It's sad and it's sick.

Knowing we were close to Thanksgiving and that I was cooking dinner this year really got me thinking about the Turkey. I honestly couldn't bear to know that I was contributing to the breeding conditions our poultry goes through in this country:

• Something I'm going to eat spent the bulk of its short life wading knee-deep in its own poop, standing so close to its neighbor that it couldn't go anywhere.
• The birds are kept in 100% darkness for their entire lives. Fresh air is piped in.
  
• Hundreds of birds die every day just because they can't hold-up their own body weight and keel-over and get trampled by their peers.
  
• They're fed all kinds of crap their bodies just weren't made to eat (other animal parts, and human manufactured "feed") and have to be given antibiotics because they're standing around in said poop all day.
• Some poor farmer in the middle of America's heartland is breaking his own moral code, losing money, and following "big business's" nasty farming practices because he really has nobody else to buy his product.
• Our tax dollars pay to heavily subsidize our food because it costs more to grow it than we're willing to pay for it. Talk about silly, wasteful, circular logic.
  

All of PETA's cruelty arguments aside, that's just not right. Actually, it's outright gross and disgusting. Who wants to eat anything produced under these conditions?

That's when I started exploring other options. Honestly, I'd prefer to purchase my bird locally, but it'd take a ton of phone calls to track-down a local producer that: a) Still has bird reservations this late in the season; b) Uses "free-range" growing practices; and c) Has a price I can afford. Unfortunately, there's just no central place for that info and I don't have the time or energy to call around, then drive across the state on Wednesday to pick-up my bird on some farm. I'd love to, but it's just not practical.

The option I turned to is Whole Foods. Granted, Whole Foods is a giant of its own and my food's going to travel far to get to me (from Pennsylvania, to be exact), but at least I know where it came from and know how it was *not* treated. And, because they carry the buying power of the "big guys," Whole Foods can bring such a bird to me at a cost that's 50-60% more than the mega-mart instead of quadruple the price. Being unemployed, that's a big thing for me right now.

I highly recommend everyone see Food, Inc. and take just one step to make a change. Get yourself a local or humanely treated natural bird this holiday season. One step may not seem like it's helping much, but it does. In the end, when sales drop, 'ole Butterball will get the message and start taking better care of its gobblers and we'll be all the happier for it while snoozing away in that tryptophan-induced nap after Thanksgiving dinner.