The Post Where I'm All Excited About Hot Water

I'm going to take a few moments to gush about a new kitchen fixture I splurged on.  You see, I'm a tea drinker, and something I've always wanted is one of those instant hot water spigots you can add to your kitchen sink.  Not a pot filler...this is designed to pour near-boiling water from a spout as you open the tap.

Recently, my regular kitchen faucet (which was a temporary hand-me-down 9 years ago anyway) kicked the bucket.  I've never much liked the old scratched, rusting, gray-enambled cast iron kitchen sink and the way it was installed, it's nearly impossible to reach to install a new faucet anyway.  So I decided it was time to just spend the money and put in a new sink.  And since I couldn't have my dream sink (an apron/farmer's sink) without renovating the entire kitchen, I was at least going to put in my hot water spigot.

And here's the whole thing completed:

Isn't it great?  It's HUGE...like my 6 year old daughter could take a bath in it, huge.  We prefer a single-bowl sink over a dual-bowl.  I simply put a small dish pan on one side so that anything collecting in the sink is out of the way and I can still use the disposal.

Off to the right, there, you can see my new fancypants hot water spigot.  Just turn that handle and I have an instant cup of hot tea.

In case you're interested, here are the products used:

• The Sink
• Goose-Neck Pull-Out Faucet
• Hot Water Dispensor 
• I re-used the existing disposal, since it was still in great working order
• Not shown, I also purchased this dish pan.

 Let's talk about my thoughts on each of the products, shall we?

The Sink
I chose this sink because I wanted a single-bowl sink and the description included dimensions that assured me it would fit in my existing hole (I wasn't replacing countertop in this project).  Also, I liked the squareness of it.  While it does look a little industrial, I just felt it looked better and sturdier than a "contractor-grade" sink you might find at the home center.

So far, I've been impressed with it, but there are a few caveats:

• It will scratch if you use a green scrubby pad on it (ask me how I know).  So only blue ones from now on (blue are made for Teflon pans).
• The grate is nice for keeping things up off the bottom of the sink, but it doesn't work so well with the garbage disposal.  Food just gets stuck under it (or in it) and if you don't have great water pressure, coaxing it into the hole is a bit of a chore.  I may try a rubber or silicone mat instead--probably a cut-down bath mat with suction cups on the bottom.
• It's squared-off and the old hole was rounded.  This ordinarily wouldn't have been a big deal except the previous owners oversized the original sink for the cabinet and had already cut away bits of the cabinet supports, so I had to do a lot of work cutting away even more--and we didn't really have the right tools on-hand.
• This sink doesn't come in more than a two-hole design.  This means if you want a built-in soap dispenser on top of the hot water faucet, you'd have to find the right tools to drill a hole in stainless steel.  I decided this wasn't a deal-breaker and just put the soap on top.

The Faucet
I was a little skeptical purchasing a no-name faucet, but the high star rating for this one was well-deserved.  There are no plastic "brushed nickel" pieces.  They're all actual metal.  It assembles easily and feels sturdy.

There was one small downside.  In the photos shown on Amazon, it shows the handle on both the left and the right, indicating it can be placed where you want it.  Turns out, it's actually a left-sided handle.  If you place it on the right (which is where my old one was), it reverses the water so that hot is down and cold is up.  I didn't want anyone burning themselves, so we just reversed the hoses under the sink.  Because the blue/red color indicator is also facing the wall, nobody will read it and choose the wrong one.  However, the lever does hit the wall since the "down" (which is now up) goes down further than the other direction.  Again, not a huge deal breaker.

The Hot Water Dispensor
Overall, I love this thing.  Seriously.  I use it to make tea.  I use it to fill small pans of water to give them a kick-start heating (the tank only holds 3/4 of a gallon, so you're not going to use it to fill a stock pot).  I've used it to get stuck-on bits off of plates quickly (like the cat's bowls).  And I frequently use it for other cooking tasks like pouring water to soften the sealing compound on canning lids or adding water to soups or to the Instant Pot.

While I love it and will never be without one again, I do want to point out a few of its faults and design flaws:

• The instructions say it will reach temperatures up to 200 degrees, but I've rarely been able to get the thing over 190 and I have it turned up to the highest setting.  This was a common complaint in the reviews on Amazon  I'm okay with it, as I don't like particularly dark tea, but if you're a tea snob (brewing black at 212 and green at "just off the boil"), it won't work for you.  Stick with an electric kettle.
• The heating tank is essentially the same from model-to-model but the price skyrockets quickly the nicer you want the visible handle to be.  ISE could seriously make their price jumps between handles a little less drastic.  Also, there were complaints in the Amazon comments from long-time users that when the tank rusts-out, you can't replace just the tank.  You have to buy a whole new kit.  Average lifespan seems to be 7 to 10 years.
• The handle I bought is a right-hand only handle, which people complained about in the reviews.  It works great if you're a righty and you place something in the sink and pour water into it (your right-hand goes for the handle).  But if you have a tea cup in your right hand (the natural pose for drinking from it), you have to reach over/behind the faucet to turn it on with your left hand and you do risk burning yourself if you accidentally reach UNDER it instead of behind.
• Installation is generally easy, but for some silly reason, it comes with everything you need EXCEPT the shutoff tee you need to adapt it onto your existing cold water pipe.  Ordinarily I'd say plumbing parts shouldn't be included, but this is a pretty standard connection that should work with anyone's plumbing.  It also comes with all the other connections and hoses--so why make customers run to the plumbing supply store for one piece?  The fitting is less than $5 retail.  They could have included one.

The Dish Pan
Let's be honest.  This is expensive for a dish pan.  However, I've had other dish pans and I don't love the way they hold-up over time.  This one looked sturdier and I liked the square, tall shape, as it'd take-up less space in the sink (I leave it there to collect dirty dishes when the dishwasher is otherwise occupied).  It also had the drain feature, which was intriguing and might prevent stagnant water from getting trapped.

Overall, I'll say it's worth the money.  The only part that could use some improvement is the drain.  It has a tendency to close itself somehow.  I wish they'd add a little friction to it to keep it where you put it.

Carbon Steel Pans - A Replacement for Teflon?

About 6 months back, there was a lot of hub-bub on the web and in various food media about Carbon Steel (sometimes called Black Steel) pans.

Carbon steel pans are nothing new, actually.  Traditional round-bottom woks are carbon steel and many commercial kitchens use carbon steel saute pans.  Carbon steel has also been a beloved material for chef's knives, though not so much in the home kitchen because it tends to turn a blotchy black-brown color.  But for some reason, carbon steel became visible to the home cook and suddenly, everyone was talking about them.

If you've never seen or worked with one, it's a heavy-gauge steel pan, often with a long steel handle (instead of plastic or silicone).  New, they have a dull gray polished finish.  Once well used and loved, they develop a dark black patina of carbonized polymer that's virtually nonstick, just like your favorite cast iron pans.  The difference is that they're lighter and thinner than cast iron, allowing you to do much of the same things you do with your trusty nonstick skillets like flipping the ingredients around or pouring them out onto a plate without the use of two hands (depending on how large your skillet is).

Interested in this new fad, I put a large one on my Christmas list and sure enough, Santa Claus came through and put this one, recommended by America's Test Kitchen, under my tree.  Around the same time I received mine, I happened to hear a podcast segment on Local Mouthful about how to season, use, and care for them.  There was also quite a bit of advice being put-out by Milk Street, including one tidbit about heating oil in it and discarding the oil before adding new fat to cook with.

So what's the verdict?

After using my pan for several months, I'm happy to report that it works well and has all but replaced my nonstick (ceramic or Teflon-coated) pan.  However, it wasn't without quite a bit of trial, error, and some frustrated fowl language.  Here are my thoughts on the matter:

Seasoning 

This pan was by far more difficult to season than even an unseasoned cast iron pan.  With cast iron, you can jump-start the seasoning by generously coating the pan in vegetable shortening, placing it upside-down on the rack of your oven, placing a tray to catch drips on the rack below it, then removing the smoke detectors (an important step) and cooking the crap out of it.  Wash, rinse, repeat until you have a nice initial layer of seasoning.   You can also roast-up chickens and fatty meats in it.

With the carbon steel pan, not so much.  I tried this method and all I got was a pan coated in a sticky, blotchy mess.  I then had to get out a steel-wool cleaning pad (Brillo or SOS) and scrape all the gunk, goo, and blotchy seasoning.

I also tried this method with the potato peels, which is endorsed by America's Test Kitchen and also came on an instruction card with my pan.  I can't say it worked particularly well for me, but I didn't have standard brown potatoes.  So that may have been a factor.

Unfortunately, the best way to season this pan is to use it and baby it.  The advice Milk Street gives of heating it with some oil, discarding the oil, then adding fresh oil to cook with goes a long way towards this process.  When you're done, immediately scrub it with soap and water, heat it again, and rub a thin layer of oil on it...preferably flax seed oil.  Let it heat a bit more til it smokes, buff out the finish, then store.  If you do this for dozens of uses, it'll gradually build-up a nice seasoning.

Appearance 

I'm not going to lie.  This pan is going to look ugly for a very long time before it gets to that nice dark patina all over.  For some reason, it seasons in a very blotchy way, so you get areas where it looks like you've damaged the pan and areas where it still looks new-ish.  Keep at it and it'll eventually all start to blend into a muddled brown/black.  But it might take up to a year or so.  Mine still isn't there, yet.  I do think part of this problem is that I have a glass-top electric stove and the pan heats very unevenly.  If you have gas, you may not have as much of a problem with this.

Nonstick Ability 

I think the turning point was when I realized that this pan is not nonstick on its own.  You can't just spray it with cooking spray, toss in an egg, and fry it up like you can with Teflon.  This pan works in conjunction with a fair amount of oil to provide its nonstick properties, even after it's fairly well seasoned.  Check-out this video I did early on of eggs sliding around on a nice thin grease slick.  I don't think I could do this even in my best-seasoned cast iron pan or my Teflon pan.

Cleaning

What it DOES do over time is start to release caked-on gunk easily when being washed.  For example, I often make "cheesy eggs" for the family (scrambled eggs with American cheese melted into them).  If you've ever made these, you know that the cheese and egg protein bakes-on hard to the pan surface...even Teflon and needs to be soaked to get it off.  Once my pan had been sufficiently seasoned, this is what it looked like after cooking a batch of 6 eggs with 3 slices of cheese in them:

Not a lot of soaking or scrubbing to be done there.  I like to use one of these blue Scotch-Brite scrubbing sponges, which are specifically made so they won't scratch Teflon coatings.  They don't scratch my hard-earned seasoning, either.  Any regular dish soap will work fine as long as you don't use an abrasive scrubber.

Be sure to dry the pan well and re-season often (using the oil, heat, buff method above) before storing.  If you don't dry it well, it will leave rusty rings on whatever surface you put it on, which isn't good for your pan or your counter top.

 

What Not to Do

One of the selling points of carbon steel is that it can safely go from stove top to oven.  While that's technically true, I wouldn't recommend doing it with anything that has a sticky finish or anything that will overbrown on the bottom.  I did it with a honey-based glaze and I ended-up ruining my finish trying to get it off and had to re-season the pan all over again.

If you're going to use carbon steel in the oven--especially before it's entirely black, stick to thin pieces of meat, fritattas, and other things that will be in there a short time and don't have a lot of sugar.

 

The Bottom Line

The bottom line is that I have grown to love this pan.  It takes some getting used to and a bit of finesse to get it seasoned-enough to work with, but once you get it right, you'll love it and keep reaching for it over and over again.

Disclaimer: I'm now a member of the Amazon Associates program, in which Amazon will share a small portion of their profits with me if you buy anything on Amazon from one of the above links.  All of the products I've linked to, I've purchased or received as a gift and my opinions are my own.  I fully support your seeking-out a local source for all items, but if you do choose to purchase from Amazon, it helps support this blog and I thank you.

Cast Iron "Chicken Fryer"

Recently, my wife and I were perusing our favorite Antique and Primitive store when I happened upon a uniquely shaped cast iron pan hanging on the wall.  It was about 10 inches across but 3 inches deep, far deeper than your average frying pan but much too shallow to be considered a dutch oven or a soup pot.  It had a side handle like a frying pan and was in excellent, ready-to-cook condition.

I picked it up, turned it over, and was surprised to see that it was a Wagner piece and that it was marked only $25.  Wagner's are not exactly rare, but they are sought-after because they're quite old and not manufactured anymore, usually very smooth (as opposed to the bumpy finish found on most newer cast iron), and a bit on the thinner side, making them a little bit lighter.  This particular one was a unique shape that I hadn't seen before and I wasn't sure what it was called.

As much as I wanted to buy it, I really have no room to store additional pans, so I put it down and walked away.  About a month later, we were back at the same store and it was still there.  That time, I couldn't resist any longer and I snatched it up.  I brought it home, gave it a good scrubbing, oiled it up, and sauteed some veggies in it.

Come to find out, it's not a particularly unique piece.  It's called a "Chicken Fryer" and I imagine they're more plentiful in the south where they fry-up a lot more chicken than we New Englanders do.  It is rather old, possibly cast in the 1940's.  The markings on the bottom are from post-1920.

Old cast iron pieces are a really good find and a great addition to your cooking arsenal.  They're often well-seasoned (even if they usually need a good scrubbing and a light re-seasoning), as smooth as some non-stick cookware, and cheap (often, cheaper than new pieces).  You can also find unique shapes and sizes that aren't manufactured today.

But most of all, cast iron isn't nearly as fussy as people make it out to be.  In fact, cast iron is almost easier to take care of than Teflon.  Once it's well-seasoned, there's really very little you can do to destroy it (short of dropping it on concrete and splitting it).  Here's a great post about the myths and maintenance of cast iron pans.  Ignore all the stuff about salt rubs, no-dish-soap, and so on.

Here are a few tips I've learned over the years by actually working with my cast iron:

• Buy old, if you can find it.  New pans from Lodge (one of the only manufacturers left in the US) aren't polished as well after casting and they have a textured surface that takes a lot of time and use to get reasonably smooth.  They also have a "pre-seasoning" treatment that, in my opinion, only makes them harder to season properly.  Older pans tend to already have this work done for you.
• Look for pans that don't have big crusty build-up.  This is a mark of a not well-cared-for pan.  While it is possible to remove it, you'll be making a lot of extra work for yourself and you'll basically have to get it down to bare metal and start seasoning from scratch.  I've been known to do this for only really unique pieces (one of which, I'll show you in a future post).  A little rust is okay, as long as it's not pitted.
• When you get an old pan home, scrub it good with soapy water and a scouring pad.  If there's significant rust, don't hesitate to use a steel wool pad (like Brillo) to get the rust off.  Once the pan is clean, dry it well with paper towels or an old cotton cloth.  Lightly rub a very thin layer of oil on the inside of the pan and heat it on medium-high heat.  As the pan heats-up, burnish/polish the oil into the pan with a wad of paper towels.  Once it looks shiny like a polished pair of shoes, turn the heat off, let it cool, give it one last wipe with a fresh paper towel to remove excess oil, and you can store it.
• If the bottom of your pan needs a little extra seasoning as well or you have a brand-new pan, coat it with a thin layer of oil as described above.  Instead of putting it on the stove, put it upside-down on the middle rack in a 350 degree oven with a sheet pan below it to catch any drips.  Open windows, turn on fans, and unplug the smoke detectors.  Heat until it begins to smoke and turn the oven off.  Let it cool enough to remove it with heavy pot holders.  Rub with a clean paper towel.  Repeat as needed until well-seasoned.
• Once you have a good seasoning, don't hesitate to use a blue Scotch Brite scrubbing sponge and regular dish soap to loosen food.  The blue pads are the non-abrasive ones made for Teflon, so they'll be gentle on your seasoning.  You can also use a nylon pan scraper or the edge of a nylon spatula for stubborn spots.
• Never leave your pan wet and try not to let starchy food dry on it (it leaves a film that's difficult to get off).  Wash right after dinner as described above, oil gently, heat the pan, and burnish in the oil.  It's now ready to store.  If you don't have time to heat it, you can oil it and store as-is, but I've found that the oil just sits on top and if you don't use your pan often enough, it goes rancid and you just have to scrub it off and re-oil.
• Avoid cooking sprays.  They have extra ingredients that do not make a good seasoning coating.  Try to use regular oils and butter in your cooking.
• Let your cooking do the hard work of seasoning your pan for you.  I've never found anything that seasons a pan better than cooking roast chicken, bacon, or oiled oven-roasted potatoes.

Choosing a Slow Cooker

I've had my slow cooker since I bought my first condo, so the poor thing is about 9-10 years old.  I didn't pay a lot for it--maybe $25.  It's a basic 6-quart Rival Crockpot brand with a dial regulator with settings for warm, low, and high.  While it has never worked nearly as well as the 1970's avocado green model I found at a consignment shop (I'm kicking myself for not buying the orange/red one I found a week later), it has served its purpose making whole chickens and sitting on buffets.

Unfortunately, you get what you pay for.  The first to go was one of the rubber feet, so it sat at an odd angle on the counter.  Then, I lost the plastic knob on the cover.  That got replaced by a "ghetto fabulous" doorknob.

 

The last straw was when the carrying handles broke.  Now, it couldn't be moved when hot, so traveling to potlucks was out of the question.

 

So I started to do some research.  I knew I didn't want another Rival.  They're made cheaply.  I also knew I wanted a built-in timer with a keep-warm setting that kicked-in after the cooking time expired.  I was willing to upgrade to a better model, even if it meant paying upwards of $150.  However, most of the nicer name brands (Cuisinart, etc.) had fancy multi-cookers that were so huge and boxy, they wouldn't be good for travel. Also, I was concerned that a model made to sauté (for pre-browning) wouldn't regulate correctly on the slow-cooker setting.  Most had teflon-coated metal inserts, which scratch easily, and the heavy ceramic crock is part of what makes a slow-cooker heat so evenly and efficiently.

I kept coming back to the Hamilton Beach Set 'n Forget 6-Quart Slow Cooker, which before Christmas was selling for under $50.  It had generally good reviews and a great feature set, including:

• A timer that lets you set in half-hour increments.  Some have presets of 2, 4, 6, 8.
• A built-in silicone gasket on the lid to keep moisture in while cooking and  liquid in while traveling.
• Built-in locks for traveling to keep the lid secure.  No Velcro strap or rubber band nonsense like my old one.
• A probe thermometer that fits through a hole in the lid and will stop cooking a hunk of meat at a certain temperature.

There were a few complaints in the Amazon reviews:

• Some people reported a defect where the timer would crap-out and they'd come home to cold food.  This seemed to not happen recently and there was a newer model number available, so I opted for that and hoped for the best.  Either way, I'd expect them to honor warranty service.
• People complained that power outages (other than a flicker) caused the pot to not come back on with the power.  This is, quite frankly, a limitation of any computerized unit that I was willing to accept.
• People reported the locks getting in the way because they don't fold-down all the way.  Again, I decided this was nit-picking and now that I have it, I agree...it's not a deal-breaker.

I ended-up receiving the pot from my wife as a Christmas gift (Thanks, Honey!) and I'm very happy with it.  So far, I've made red sauce, a whole chicken, the breakfast casserole, and a pot of ham and bean soup (recipe to come soon).  It has worked as advertised and is way more convenient than my old pot.  I highly recommend it.

My Favorite Things: A Dishwasher Basket for Canning Lids and Rings

Last year, I was inspired by Oprah's "Favorite Things" to do a series of posts with some of my favorite food and cooking-related gift items.  Since the posts were pretty popular last year, I thought I'd continue the tradition.  Of course, I can't hand out free items like Oprah can, but hopefully I can inspire a few gifts for the foodies and entertainers in your life.  Enjoy!

Recently, we purchased this dishwasher basket to allow us to wash the various small parts of the baby's bottles in the dishwasher.  As soon as I unpacked the thing, I immediately realized that it was a multi-tasker, waiting and at the ready.  I had FINALLY found the solution to washing canning jar lids and rings in the dishwasher without having them float down to the heating element and being ruined.

At around $4 to $6, it really can't be beat for washing any small items you might have from small parts for water bottles to tiny utensils, sippy cup parts, etc.

The Pressure Cooker 101...Don't Be Afraid!

I've spent a good deal of time on this blog proclaiming the virtues of the pressure cooker but I've never taken the time to explain how it works.  I thought I'd take a moment and do a little "Pressure Cooker 101" in hopes that it'll convince more of you that it's not the dangerous gadget you thought it was and that it deserves a place in your kitchen.

Yeah, But Is it Really Safe??
In many ways, it's safer than your microwave...I'm serious.  Pressure cookers don't just explode of their own free will and I don't know of a way the cover can actually come flying off.  They have elaborate clamping/locking mechanisms that pretty much prevent such an accident...even in old models.  If you've heard Grandma's horror stories about redecorating the ceiling, what probably happened to her is the safety release plug blew.  Here's the deal..

All pressure cookers regulate the steam pressure inside the pot with the "pressure regulator" (ingenious name, don't you think?).  On the simplest models, this is a tube or "stem" in the cover with a hole in it.  You place a weighted "jiggler" over the stem that's calibrated such that if the pressure goes over 15psi, the jiggler will tilt to the side and let some steam out.  This constant rocking motion or "jiggling" makes sure the pressure inside stays constant during cooking and that the excess steam is vented.  In fancier models, the mechanism is often spring-loaded, but the concept is the same.

The problem usually comes from the backup system.  Manufacturers want to make sure that if the main regulator should fail that something else will allow the steam to escape in a relatively safe way.  In older models, this was a rubber plug in the top of the lid.  In the event that the unit goes way over the 15psi normal operating pressure, the plug will fly out of the top, venting steam and food straight upward.  The advantage is that nothing flies outwards and hurts the cook or anyone else in the room.  The disadvantage, of course, is that food hits the ceiling and viola--you're redecorating the kitchen.

The good news is that many newer models have backup vents that vent downward towards the stove instead of out or up.  Others have spring-loaded backup vents that will vent steam but very little food.  Even if you do have a plug-style vent, you need not fear it blowing as long as you keep the pot in good repair, replace the plug now and then, and don't just walk away from the unit and forget it on the stove.  In other words, common sense rules.

Now that that's out of the way, let's get cooking...

The Basic Rules
There are a few basic rules that apply to all pressure cookers:

• Always follow the "Two-Thirds" rule, meaning you should never fill the pot more than 2/3 of the way full with food.  The pot needs air space to build-up steam pressure.  If you fill the pot to the brim, it'll never build-up enough pressure to cook and you'll just end-up with burnt food on the bottom and raw food on the top.  You can also end-up with food coming out of the primary vent and that's not good or safe either.
• Read your instruction manual!  Every pot works slightly differently and you must know how to work your pot in order to use it safely.  Know how the locking mechanism works.  Know how the primary and secondary vent systems work and how to tell when it's "at full pressure."  Know how to use the "rapid" pressure release feature if one exists (more on this later).  Most importantly, know how to maintain your pot and how to tell when parts need replacing.
• Make sure there's at least a cup of water in the pot beyond what you expect the food to absorb (unless you're following a tested recipe that says otherwise).  Pressure cookers work on steam.  That means that some water will be used to build-up and keep pressure and a *lot* of it will be vented during the cooking and pressure release process.  More water is always safer.
• Never ever ever try to open a pot while it's under pressure.  If you can open a rapid release valve or remove a jiggler, do that carefully and slowly first and leave it open for a minute or two before attempting to open the lid.

Let's Get Cooking!

This is a very basic outline of how cooking works in a pressure cooker.  It's for illustrative purposes only.  It's probably best if you start-out following tested recipes since you won't have a feel for the abbreviated cooking times until you've done quite a bit of cooking in the pot.  Even I still consult cookbooks before I begin.

1) If you're cooking meat, most recipes tell you to brown the meat in the bottom of the pot with some fat first.  This is purely for flavor development as pressure cooking is a wet cooking method.  The same goes for sautéing vegetables.

2) Put the rest of the ingredients in the pot. Pour-in the water or liquid that will be used to generate steam and, in some cases, add flavor to the food.

3) Cover the pot and attach the regulator (if needed) and heat the pot on high heat until it comes up to full pressure.  Consult your user manual to find out how to tell when it's at full pressure.  For jiggler models, it's when the jiggler begins rocking quickly and emitting steam.

4) Once it's up to pressure, reduce the heat to low or medium low and start the timing for the recipe.  This is probably the only tricky part and you'll get the hang of it once you get to know your pot.  The objective is to keep the stove at the lowest temperature necessary to keep the pot at full pressure.  For jiggler models, this is usually a gentle rocking or spinning motion of the jiggler with minimal steam escaping.  If the jiggler stops moving, the pressure has gone too low and the burner heat needs to be increased a little.

5) Once the time is up, turn the burner off and gently remove the pot from the heat.  If your recipe calls for a "natural release," simply walk away and allow the pressure to go down on its own.  This may take up to 15 or 20 minutes, depending on the food.  Typically, a natural release is used for meats and large pieces of food and it's important to do because the release counts as part of the cooking time (i.e. the food finishes cooking during the cool-down).

Other recipes, usually those for vegetables and grains, will call for a "Rapid Release," meaning that you are to release the steam right away so as to not overcook the food.  Newer pots often have rapid release mechanisms and you should consult your user manual to find out how to safely operate it.  If you don't have one, you can carefully move the pot to the sink and run cold water over it.  The cold water will condense the steam inside of the pot and reduce the pressure quickly.

Some pots have a button or indicator that will tell you when pressure is down.  For jiggler models, you can gently tap the plastic top of the jiggler with a long utensil such as a wooden spoon to see if steam escapes.  Just keep your hands away from the steam!

6) Once the pressure is down, you can safely remove the jiggler (if you have one) and open the pot.  A good deal of steam will still escape, so open it carefully and away from you as you would any hot steamy pot.

That's it!  That's really all it takes to use a pressure cooker.

What Are the Benefits?

There are literally dozens of benefits to using a pressure cooker and I've mentioned most of them in the past.  However, some things are worth repeating.

• Reduced Cooking Time - Pressure cookers can reduce cooking time by up to two-thirds.  Imagine pot roasts, beef stew, and homemade stock in 45 minutes instead of hours.  Corn takes just 6 minutes, as does white rice.  Brown rice takes just 20-25 minutes instead of 45.
• Energy Savings - Because the majority of the cooking takes place on low heat, you use much less energy than any other method, including the microwave.
• One-Pot Cooking - Pressure cookers excel at one-pot meals like stews, braises, etc.
• More Vitamins - Because the food cooks for less time and because it's cooking via steam, most pressure cooker dishes retain more vitamins and minerals than when they're cooked in the traditional way.

I hope this convinces more of you to give pressure cooking a try.  If you don't want to invest in a pot, borrow one from a friend or relative.  I can almost guarantee Mom has one kicking around that she rarely uses.  Just make sure the rubber seals and the safety plug are in good shape and give it a try.  I promise you'll love it.

A Little Sparkle

A few months ago, I wrote about finding a unique cast iron casserole dish in a consignment shop near my home. I carefully cleaned it up and have put it into rotation with the rest of my cookware and it's gradually developing a beautiful patina and cooking better and better each time I use it. I love finding treasures in other people's "junk."

A week or two later, I had the opportunity to spend some more time rummaging through the same shop. It's a rather large place and the smaller items, like cookware, are often hidden behind picture frames or inside hutches in remote areas like the basement. During this trip, I happened upon a couple of silver bowls that were all black and tarnished.


I'm a huge fan of The Barefoot Contessa and one of Ina's favorite service pieces that she uses on the show is a pair of silver bowls that she found at an antique shop and had refurbished by a jeweler. They're very simple silver bowls with no ornate details, which is why I like them. She often puts dips, nuts, and other items in them. When I spotted two silver bowls for $2 and $3 respectively, I couldn't pass-up the challenge to see if if I could bring a respectable shine back to their well-worn surfaces.

After some time spent with chemical tarnish remover and some silver polishing cream, I'm very happy with the results. We even used them at the holiday dinner table this year!




What I love the most about these bowls is that they're not perfect and they have a story behind them. I may not know what that story is, but I know that someone else owned them, loved or at least liked them, and used them. The signs of use are just plain obvious. It's my hope that I can use and love them too and maybe pass them onto someone else some day.

The other beauty of these bowls is that they're reused, making them an earth-friendly choice of service-ware that I could never get in a department store.

Gifts for The Cook

I suppose I wouldn't be a real blogger if I didn't at least do a list of great holiday gifts for that cook in your life. Unfortunately, I'm a bit late in getting this out. Things have been pretty busy with a new job and all. Many of these items are available at your friendly neighborhood housewares store, so they can be good last-minute gifts.

A Beginner's Cheesemaking Kit from The New England Cheesemaking Supply Company. I actually have the mozzarella kit. It's loads of fun, incredibly easy, and it makes delicious cheese. Plus, it's cheaper than buying fresh mozzarella from the deli counter.

A CDN ProAccurate Digital Instant Read Thermometer - Still rated near the top of the list by Cook's Illustrated Magazine, but at a fraction of the cost. The only difference between this one and the top-rated is the response time and a $60 cost difference.

Cooking Magazine Subscription - When your friend is on the road and can't get to my blog, he or she will need some great reading material. Why not give a gift subscription to one of these great cooking magazines:

• Food & Wine
• Cook's Illustrated
• Cook's Country

A Whole Foods Gift Card (or other grocer) - True cooking hobbyists like to experiment from time to time with odd , unfamiliar, or expensive ingredients but they can't usually justify the added cost to the family grocery bill. Let them feed their habit with a gift card to their favorite supermarket. Think of it like buying crafting supplies.

LL Bean Boat 'N Tote - This classic bag is probably one of the longest-standing products at LL Bean. It's one of the most rugged bags you'll ever own and by far the most versatile. But why is it a cook's friend? I use my large tote every time I'm bringing a potluck dish somewhere. You can drop an entire 5-quart slow cooker into it and put it on the floor in the backseat of the car and it won't go anywhere. It's also a handy way to cart your stuff home.

Cooler Bag - An extra-large cooler bag is another awesome item to have when bringing pot-luck dishes somewhere. I have one that my largest mixing bowl fits in and we use it every summer for picnics. It will also keep hot food hot.

Microplane Grater - This one of the most used gadgets in my kitchen. If I could only have one of Microplane's products, it'd be this one. It can do everything from hard cheese to nutmeg and citrus zest.

Pressure Cooker - Have entire healthy meals ready in 1/3 of the time. Pressure cookers are safe, easy to use, and one of the best gadgets to get that simmered-all-day taste in less than an hour.

Iron Chef (No, Not THAT Iron Chef)

There's a small consignment shop adjacent to the laundromat that my wife and I use and I periodically wander over there during the dry cycle to poke around. My wife hates these types of places, claiming that, "they're just filled with someone else's junk," but I come from a family of packrats and handymen who just love to see what treasures lie beneath the dust.

On a recent expedition, I happened upon a slightly rusted and beat-up cast iron casserole dish. It was oval in shape with decorative handles on each end. I've never seen anything quite like it as most cast iron pans today are in the familiar frying pan or pot shape. This one intrigued me because it was essentially a casserole dish that could be started on the stove top--not something most casserole dishes could do. So, I snatched it up for less than ten bucks (a true bargain) and brought it home in a brown paper sack...much to the chagrin of my wife. I then pondered its restoration. Here's a "before" shot:


Cast iron is one of those culinary topics that people can be very passionate about. Some avoid it, assuming it's old-fashioned and antiquated--something that Grandma used in the days of old before newer and better cookware was invented. Others swear by it and lovingly care for their collection of iron cookware in the way car fanatics care for high-performance rare collectors edition vehicles. Those people claim that absolutely nothing outperforms cast iron, use nothing but cast iron, and will challenge your best, most expensive anodized nonstick frying pan to an egg-frying duel any day of the week.

I'm not quite *that* passionate about it, but I am gradually understanding why cast iron cookware is making a comeback. For one, a well-seasoned, well cared-for pan can be truly non-stick and gives Teflon a definite run for its money. In a day and age when people question the health risks of Teflon and similar coatings, that's a good thing. More on my thoughts about that issue in a later post.

Secondly, nobody can argue the fact that iron holds heat well and evenly distributes it much better than just about any stainless steel pan out there. It takes a bit of time to learn to control the heat, especially with an electric stove, but it works quite well once you get the knack of it. In fact, it can even make-up for the uneven heat often produced by electric burners when using extra-large pans. We're talking evenly browned pancakes, folks. The holy grail of breakfast.

Third, cast iron can go from the stove top right into the oven and back again. It's not recommended that you do this with coated pans because the coating can break down at high temperatures. This stove to the oven technique is the secret to how professional chefs everywhere serve-up delicious seared meats that are perfectly done in the middle. I personally like that it's both a frying pan and a baking dish at the same time.

One of the more intriguing things about cast iron is its ability to be an heirloom. It lasts virtually forever and some families have passed perfectly seasoned pans down for generation upon generation. That's the best way to get your hands on one. However, we don't all have that luxury, so we have to look at other methods.

The first is buying a new pan and seasoning it yourself. Lodge Cookware, one of the very few remaining cast iron cookware producers in this country, makes "pre-seasoned" pans now. While the factory seasoning (a chemical process) will never stand-up to Grandma's heirloom piece, it does get you on your way to a proper seasoning much quicker than if you had bought a raw, unseasoned pan. Using a "speed seasoning" method on top of that such as coating the pan with shortening and baking it at a high temp for awhile can further help it along.

A second way is to troll antique shops and yard sales. Many people have old, beat-up cast iron pans lying around their basements. They're often rusty and/or have chips in the seasoning and other "crud" in the nooks and crannies. While the former owners probably chalked these up as junk, antique dealers know that in the hands of a true believer, they can be brought back to their glory days and snatch them up. You can often get your hands on one of these cheap like I did.

So how do you repair a cruddy yard sale pan? There are different methods, but I used a combination of hot water, coarse salt, and oil or shortening to scrub most of the rust and crud out. I further evened-out the bottom of the pan with a Brillo or SOS pad (or a fine steel wool pad). That left me with an even yet mostly unseasoned bottom to contend with. After washing and drying thoroughly, I heated the pan a little and added a tablespoon or two of cooking oil and "burnished" it in with a paper towel.

This "burnishing" process is something that took me a long time to understand. Essentially, you're rubbing the oil into the surface of the pan and the baked-on blackness (seasoning) that's already there, adding to that "seasoning". When you're done, the pan should be shiny but not really greasy. If it's greasy, all that will happen is the grease will go rancid during storage and give your food off-flavors the next time you cook.

A well-seasoned pan is nearly as good as the best non-stick coated pan. And, contrary to what most fanatics will tell you, they can stand-up to a good washing too with a non-abrasive scrubbing sponge and liquid dish detergent. Just make sure to dry it thoroughly and burnish it with oil immediately after washing to preserve the seasoning and avoid rust. Coat the bottom too, as it has a tendency to rust easily.

So, how about my rusty old cast iron casserole? Here it is, all fixed-up and ready to start developing a new finish:


I used it to bake some fish the other night and it worked fabulously. I can't wait to try searing a small roast or piece of steak and then finishing it in the oven. That and maybe some delicious roasted potatoes and root veggies. Yum!

Thoughts On Indoor Grilling...

Living in a 3rd-floor condo, I truly miss grilling. While I'm not one of your grilling die-hards that insists the Weber charcoal-burning kettle is the only way to go, I do enjoy the delicious flavors that come with having a flame touch your food with it's delicate hot fingers. I enjoy the smoky flavor, smell, and the perfect black grid marks on the food. It's a total sensory experience. Throw in an ear of perfectly cooked corn and, well, you've got a barbecue that'll knock your socs off.

For those of us multi-unit dwellers who are forced to respect the city fire code, the cooking appliance and gadget industry has come up with a number of alternatives, some bad, some good. There are "contact grills" (thank you, George Foreman), grill pans, even electric grills. All of them claim to be able to produce those delicious grill marks. In fact, few do...

Contact Grills - I'll admit that George had the right idea when he developed his "Lean, Mean, Grilling Machine," but he fell short mimicking the actual cooking method. I've tried several contact grills from a number of manufacturers and I'm never able to get anything better than flabby chicken with yellow stripes where the grill marks should be and only on one side. Half the time, the top grill never touches the meat. Worse yet, the meat often ends-up being steamed instead of "grilled". And don't get me started on how hard they are to clean unless you have the one model with removable grilling plates.

Electric Grills - I honestly have never tried one. If someone out there has, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Just looking at the things, I'm pretty sure you won't get much better results than a contact grill. There's just no way the heating element can do the kind of damage direct contact with an open flame can do. That, and they must be a pain to clean.

Coated Grill Pans - Basic knowledge of searing technique tells us that grill marks and "crust" are made by having the food in contact with a very hot pan or rack such that it sticks to the metal until the crust is formed. Then, it releases. So, I ask, how would you get good grill marks with a teflon-coated "nonstick" grill pan? The best it can do is put those sad yellow lines on it like the contact grill. Plus, liquid leaks into the troughs between the ridges of the pan and turns into steam, steaming your meat.

My Favorite: Cast Iron Grill Pans - My personal vote goes to cast iron grill pans such as those made by Lodge Cookware. Why? First of all, nothing holds heat like cast iron. If intense heat is what you're after, cast iron is a no-brainer. This intense heat actually makes black grill marks instead of yellow ones. Also, the "grill" ridges are high enough that your food isn't going to come in contact with the valleys between ridges. They're sharp too, not rounded like coated grill pans, so they're going to leave well-defined marks on the food. The best part is that if you run the pan on high, drippings from the meat will drop into the valleys, burn, and actually produce a moderate amount of smoke that goes back up into the food giving it real food flavor. Just don't forget to run the hood fan or you'll smoke yourself out of house and home (and set-off the smoke alarms to boot). My only complaint is the size, but they're so cheap, you could probably buy two.

Tips for Cooking with a Cast Iron Grill Pan

• Even if your pan is "seasoned" at the factory, season it yourself again. It'll make it easier to clean. Coat all surfaces of the pan with vegetable shortening and place the pan upside-down in the oven with a sheet pan covered in aluminum foil on the shelf below it to catch any drippings. Heat the oven to 450 degrees and let the pan "bake" for 15 minutes or so. You will want to open some windows and turn on the hood fan. This will produce smoke.
• Pound the meat with a mallot until it's an even thickness so it cooks evenly. If working with chicken, use the smooth side of the mallot and work until it's about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick.
• If using a marinade, blot all excess marinade off the meat with a paper towel before grilling. Most marinades have a lot of sugar in them that will burn too soon and actually fuse itself to your pan. It's not easy to remove and you'll have more smoke than necessary.
  
• If using dry rubs or simple dry seasoning, blot the meat dry with paper towels. Add a bit of oil to the meat and put the dry rub on top of that. Let it sit for a few minutes to improve flavor (or refrigerate up to 4 hours).
• Pre-heat the pan on your stove's largest hob on the highest setting. Do not oil the pan. It'll only produce smoke. Add the meat and sear on both sides to get your grill marks. If the meat is thick, reduce the heat to medium and cook the meat through. Alternatively, place the entire pan in a hot oven to finish cooking the meat to the desired temperature.
• Clean your pan while still warm using a stiff wire brush like this one. Scrape any stubborn char off with the back (wood) side of the brush. After it cools, rinse the pan with water and a small bit of dish soap to get the black bits out of the pan. Wipe thoroughly with a paper towel to remove any further residue and dry thoroughly. Exposed iron will rust if left wet.
• Die hard cast iron enthusiasts tell you never to scrape the pan with metal or wash with soap because it'll ruin the seasoning--the black coating formed by use that gives the pan its non-stick feature and prevents rusting. In the case of the grill pan, I make an exception, as I don't really want chunks of burnt food becoming part of the "seasoning". As long as you oil your pan properly after cleaning (see below), you won't have a problem with the seasoning.
  
• After every use, pour a small amount of vegetable oil into the pan and rub it into the pan with a paper towel. A slightly warm pan will absorb the oil better. Let it sit until it dries a bit before storing.

Recipe: Cast-Iron Grilled Chicken

2-4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
seasoning or dry rub of your choice (lemon pepper, cajin, garlic + pepper, etc.)
salt
olive oil

1) Cover each chicken breast with a piece of plastic wrap and pound with the flat side of a mallot until chicken is 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. Pound from the center, pushing outwards.
2) Place chicken on a plate or plastic board. Blot dry, then add olive oil to the top surface. Sprinkle generously with your spice rub and salt. Turn chicken over and repeat. Let sit with rub for about 5 minutes.
3) While chicken rests, heat the grill pan on your stove's highest setting. Use the hood fan to cut-back on smoke.
4) Place the chicken pieces on the grill pan with a pair of tongs, being sure to not place them too close or they'll steam. If cooking 4 breasts, work in two batches. The chicken should immediatly make a sizzling sound and stick to the pan. Let it stick for at least two minutes.
5) When the chicken releases from the pan, turn it a quarter turn to make a grid pattern on the underside of the meat. Sear another 1-2 minutes.
6) Turn chicken over and sear the other side as you did in step 5. Turn the heat down to medim-high and cook chicken until it registers 160-165 on a meat thermometer. Remove with tongs and serve.